Once every couple months (maybe 1 out of 40 starts), the car tries to start but it sounds like it's out of gas, even though I have a full tank. It cranks and cranks and cranks. I hold the key and let it crank for up to 2 minutes, and finally it starts.

It's not consistent or reproducible, so the dealer isn't much help. they did replace the fuel filter, but it still happens.

it's hard to attribute this to bad gas, because it has happened with full tanks of Mobile, Marathon, Shell, Costco and Meijer gas. Always 87 octane. But it does seem to happen more often with Mobile and Marathon (but all have same ethanol content, right?)

Once the car starts, it runs fine.

I'm not sure, but I think it happens when I turn off the engine quickly after parking. If I let it idle for a few seconds, then turn it off, it doesn't seem like it happens. But I'm not sure. Maybe moisture/humidity is causing it, but I not sure about that either.

anyone else have this problem? Or can offer tips?

The only thing I can think of is your fuel pump. You might try cycling the key to on (the point just before cranking the engine) and back to off a few times. When you get to the "on" point, this is where the fuel pump kicks in, so doing it a few times should set up the pump better.

Other than that, don't know what else it could be.

very cool tip. I just tried it and heard something turning on, probably the pump. I never noticed that before.

Next time it happens I'll try doing that instead of cranking it.

Thanks!

sounds like the engine is ocasionally 'flooding' when it happens next, hold the gas pedal flat on the floor while you crank the engine

Interesting....
I appreciate these replies! I will try the suggestions next time it happens and report back. But it could be awhile, because this doesn't happen often (thankfully).

I have the exact same problem. I still have no idea what it is, but it's been suggested that it's either the cam position sensor or the ECM relay. One thing I've noticed is when it happens, I step on the gas a few times when starting and it usually goes......usually.

Hi...I joined this forum because I have *exactly* the problem described by aaaah.

Hey mikgag, have you had the ECM relay or cam position sensor replaced? Did it work?

Anyone successfully fixed this issue?

Hi this is jayselantra again. I forgot my password and needed to create this new acct. anyway, it happened to me again today, but this time pressing the gas and continuing to crank did not help. I let it sit for 4 hours then followed peachferrari's advice, and it started. I did not have to mash the gas pedal either, it just started right up after moving the key in and out of "on" three times.

Like the original poster, this happens to me a few times each year (maybe two or 3 times). I'd like to fix this. Should I pay the $$$ and have the fuel pump replaced? Or is it more likely one of those sensors? I've got a 2000 Elantra too. Any mechanics out there or anyone else fixed this issue?

Also, I wonder if it's covered by the powertrain warranty. But the dealer I called said there is nothing he can do if they can't reproduce the issue. Any advice here would be great!

hi I have got the same problem with my hyundai coupe
sometimes it does't start,usualy the third time i run the car on the same day after about 1 hour after i switch off it wont start for a while, i disconet the battery, and
most of times it starts, , i took the car to a hyundai dealer, and they said it was the immobilizer, or worst the ECU . I was told use the master key (purple) to try if it works
i disconnected the battery for 1 day and the fuse for the ECU as well. i am now waiting to see if it works, if it doesn't i will have my ECU decoded , so that way the immobilizer is canceled.

I don't think anyone should have the fuel pump replaced without knowing for sure

THE IMMOBILIZER ON MOST HYUNDAIS WORKS BY CANCELING THE INJECTORS SO NO PETROL GOES INTO THE ENGINE, BUT THE ENGINE STILL TURNS NORMALLY, BUT DOESN'T FIRE up!!! its writen on the handbook

Hey guys, new to this forum but i have an elantra and I am having one **** of a time right now and it seems that this is the same problem. 99 Elantra with i guess the 2.0 motor. went to work a couple of days ago and when i came out to leave it wouldn't start, just kept cranking and cranking. My first thought was the ignition coil and I didn't see any spark so i replaced it. Still the same issue. I am going to go and try some of the other ideas brought forth and let you know but if anyone has any other advice, please let me know.
Brian

Also adding a little more to my post. Tried turning the ignition on and off a few times and that didn't work. checked the spark plugs after repeated times trying to start and they smelled a little like gas, but definately not drenched. I think I have a more fuel related problem. Does anyone know where the fuel pump fuse is or does it just have a relay. I pulled out the back seats and tried to start the car with my hand on the fuel pump housing and I couldn't feel anything different. I just really don't want to spend $200 on a fuel pump if that isn't the problem. Let me know what you guys can come up with...

I wish koolnelson would update about ECM decoding (whatever that is. ...and where to get that done, a dealership?)

It happened to me again today and this time the car does not start at all, even after all the tricks. It's siting in my garage (thankfully). This really sucks. I would hate to get rid of this car, it's got only 53K miles and looks and runs good (when it starts LOL). I'll call my dealer now and see if there are any new service bulletins and post back in a couple days.

This post has been edited by jayselantra2: Jul 20 2007, 03:37 PM

Well my car died and I had it towed to the dealer. Luckily it wouldn't start for them either so they could troubleshoot.

They replaced the CAM POSITION SENSOR. Good call mikegag! :clap:

Also, fyi - my 2000 elantra has no immobilizer, the keys are standard with no electronics inside, and there is no factory security system which would add an immobilizer-type cutoff. The only cutoff from the fuel is a relay from the fuel pump and the dealer said that was fine.

Total cost with tow was $250, money happily spent if this fixed the problem for good. Been happening to me since early 2004! :beer:

I have the same problem but after several cranking i can hear a small BOOM from the engine or AIR intake so i stop direclty and on the next crank the car starts normaly...anyone have this small BOOM or know how to fix it

Hey i have the exact problem. No spark so i replaced the coil pack, still nothing . Have you fixed problem?

I think I have the same thing going on. I have a 2000 elantra, and a few weeks ago the check engine light came on. The car runs fine, no stalling or anything, but I began to notice that everytime I fill up the car, it doesn't want to start afterwards. The first time it did this, I didn't think much of it, just put the pedal to the floor and it started. I removed the fuse to clear the code to see if the light would come back on, and a few day later it did again. Still only when I fill up, will it not want to start. I have to get an appointment to get it in. I'm the orginal owner..but I'm sure whatever it is won't be covered by the powertrain warranty.

Ok...mine turned out to be the purge valve solenoid.

Well I have the same problem. I pulled my fuel filter today, to see if I had fule coming into the fuel filter. Turned the key on and there was nothing. Where is the fuel pump relay and how do I check it.

Thanks
Jeff

I had the same problem with a 1.6 Lantra (UK model Elantra). It turns out to be not enough power to make a spark due to resistive leads, resistive plugs plus lower voltage while the engine is cranking.
I found the new HT leads I fitted have double the resistance of the old ones e.g. the new longest HT lead is 7K ohms whereas the old one was 3.2K ohms. I also noticed that the spark plugs are the resistive type. Take all this resistance plus the voltage drop on the systen due to cranking the engine and hey, no spark at all ! I changed the leads for copper cored (self made) and now the car starts while cranking instead of just firing as I turn off the key or not at all ! Brilliant. Resistive HT leads are such a pain; always cause trouble. I think the manufacturer goes all out to reduce emf emissions which works very well if I can't even start my car !
Here is how I made the copper cored HT leads. The problem is of course the fittings for the coil pack and spark plugs which cannot be bought. To get around this, use the fittings from the resistive HT leads. Chop the cable off right next to each fitting. Screw in a self-tapping screw (I used a 1 inch one) half way; then saw off the head of the screw; file or grind the end to a point and screw on the copper cored HT lead ( you can buy this from car accessory shop). When both ends have been assembled, I mixed up some araldite and applied around the join to seal it and strengthen it. I'm not sure araldite is the best stuff to use as it can crack up in cold weather. Maybe some silicon sealer would have been better.
I have noticed no interference on the car radio; although the leads are now copper cored, the plug caps and the plugs themselves are resistive so this helps with supression.